One of my favorite places to explore in Toronto on a Saturday is Kensington Market. It is a vibrant and diverse area, located in the heart of Toronto. When I visit there, I feel like I am taking a sensory trip around the world.
The bohemian neighborhood draws artists and tourists with indie shops, vintage boutiques and art spaces. There’s a wide selection of specialty grocers, bakeries and cheese shops to browse and many trendy bars, cafes and international places to eat; from casual, walk-up to the counter and order places (which I frequent) to fine dining restaurants. All this atmosphere and culture is packed into a few blocks; definitely a walkable area. Once in a while, a car will pass you on the narrow streets, but it’s mostly foot traffic. I always take the transit when travelling there so I don’t have to look for parking (or pay an arm and a leg).
Not only is the actual marketplace area incredibly interesting, the area directly surrounding it is filled with Victorian homes where students, artists and families reside. The architecture of the buildings and homes is amazing.
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Exploring Kensington Market
I started out a little later than usual for a Saturday morning because I had a doctor’s appointment (don’t worry…just getting my shoulder checked because it’s been bothering me for a while). So, right after I left the doctor’s office, I went through the drive-thru window at Tim’s (hint for my Non-Canadian friends…that is our slang term for Tim Horton’s Coffee Shop) and grabbed a bagel with cream cheese. It was already 10 am and I was really hungry because I didn’t eat before my appointment.
Well, I took my bagel and headed to the subway station. I didn’t have to wait long for the train to arrive, only about 2 minutes. I grabbed a seat and took half the bagel out of the wrapper to eat.
As I was eating, I noticed the elderly lady sitting next to me was staring at the remaining half of the bagel balanced on my lap. On closer inspection, I was able to see that she was dressed rather raggedy, looked down on her luck and could quite possibly be just as hungry as I was…if not more. The train was almost to my stop, so I got up to head to the door and casually held out the wrapped bagel half to her and said “I’m full, you want this?”. She quickly reached for it and said “Thank you, dear. God Bless.” I walked off that train with a smile on my face and a lighter heart. My day was off to a great start.
The train dropped me at Spadina Station, where I hopped a streetcar to Nassau Street. This is where I usually start my “Market” explorations. I got off the streetcar and put up my umbrella. Oh, did I forget to mention that it was raining off and on all morning? I did forget? Sorry! But hey, I’m not made of sugar. I will not melt in the rain! I am an adventurer! Onward!
I walked one block west on Nassau to get to where the shops and such started. What I normally do when I visit Kensington Market is to take a complete walk through first to see if anything new opened up. The rain was still light, so it didn’t deter me from my venture. It was actually great, because the streets weren’t as congested as a non-rainy Saturday morning and I was able to take several pictures.
I popped into a few shops, but I wasn’t really looking for anything in particular, just out enjoying my Saturday. I went into a cute little wine shop and tried a sample. Then I checked out some clothing at the vintage shops and saw a few things that I liked, but they weren’t in the right sizes. That’s the thing with vintage shops, there’s usually only one size in a lot of the items. Oh well, better luck next time!
As you may have noticed, many of the buildings here are works of art in their own right. The creative spirits have a huge canvas to work on within the Market and the designs are constantly changing. Each time I visit, there is some new art to see. Two of my favorite pieces are the car planter and what I call the flower wall. The wall has remained unchanged for as long as I have been visiting. The car was abandoned on the side of the road a million years ago, and someone had a great idea to remove the hood and trunk and plant flowers in there. The car is regularly painted with designs, but this is always changing as well. This time I saw it was painted like a berry garden.
My next stop was the Blue Banana Market where they sell “One of a Kind Gifts”. This is located right in Kensington Market, housed in a very unassuming storefront. The very first time I ever ventured inside, I was totally surprised. The plain exterior in no way prepares you for the chaotic, avant-garde, vibrant, artisanal inside of the store! This retail business found it’s perfect home in Kensington Market. If you do make it to Kensington Market, make sure you visit this store!
Their eclectic range of gift items truly reflects the surrounding neighborhood. Inside the walls, you will find handcrafted items from local artisans; you will find gag gifts; you will find beautiful locally handmade jewelry and pottery. There’s a smattering of whimsical and magical items; dragons co-mingle with fairies and wizards (sorry…not real live ones) And there’s crazy, funny socks, mugs, aprons and don’t forget the oven mitts! Some of these had me snorting with laughter and already picking out which ones I would get for everyone for Christmas. I saw a whole section devoted to hot sauce. Not your ordinary hot sauce either. The sauces all have such imaginative names and are so hot that you could die if you eat them (that might be an exaggeration). They have souvenirs and candy. They have multitudes of tea and coffee and the accessories to go with. There are a couple of sections of Toronto and Canada souvenirs. Anyway, I could write all night about the hodge-podge of joyousness found on the shelves and walls, of the Blue Banana, but I am gonna stop here. You will see some of what I am talking about in my pictures below. The rest…well, I guess you’ll have to plan a trip and see for yourself!
Random Stuff
Imported Stuff
Toronto & Canada Souvenir Stuff
Household Stuff – with attitude!
Mystical & Whimsical Stuff
Candy Stuff
There is so much more to see in the Blue Banana, but I am running out of space to put the pictures. If you want to explore this a bit more, they do have an online store.
After looking at all this stuff, I was getting very hungry and decided to try out something I had never eaten before. I “window shopped” several small food places…and by that I mean I peered into windows at posted menus, I checked out the food of people eating near the windows and then finally googled the names to see if there were bad reviews. I was pretty much dead of starvation by the time I made my decision! I went into a little place called “Torteria San Cosme” and walked up to the counter to order “Nopales with Queso Panela” and a “botella de agua” (which I can say properly because I spent a month in Costa Rica. Yay me! )
Torteria San Cosme is an authentic Mexico City style puesto (street food stand), serving tortas – sandwiches done a la plancha in buttered soft telera bread stuffed with assorted fillings along with their pickled jalapeños.
They also prepare other street-style indulgences called antojitos: churros – fried dough pastries with cajeta caramel; elotes – corn on the cob with crema, cotija cheese, chile & lime; esquites – delicious corn stew with serranos & epazote.
Torteria San Cosme also supports local businesses by sourcing many of the ingredients right there in Kensington Market.
By the time I finished my sandwich, it was mid-afternoon. I wanted to check out some street art and decided to head to Graffiti Alley (a small section of back alleys that are completely covered in graffiti). It’s about a 12 minute walk from the south end of Kensington Market, so I headed back out to Spadina to get my bearings and turn on cell phone GPS…just in case. As I was walking, I saw a little bit of art that must have overflowed from Kensington Market and Graffiti Alley. I took a couple of shots as I headed south.
After walking for about 15 minutes (my GPS lied and told me it was only going to take 12 minutes), I saw the sign. I had arrived….
This would be my first time actually seeing Graffiti Alley in person and although I was unsure of what to expect, I was excited to see the artwork. Let me just say, it did not disappoint me. I was awed by the scope of work here. The vibrant colors, shapes and depictions rival anything I have seen in art galleries and museums. I took about seven million pictures while walking through Graffiti Alley, so I will try to pick out a few that I feel give the best representation of the street art displayed.
Side Note: Street artists or “writers” have developed their own language. I found it quite interesting learning some of the terms. I found out that I would be considered a “bencher” in the graffiti scene. Click here if you would like to read up on this: Glossary of Graffiti Terms.
The entire building below is covered with this mural. Or “top to bottom – end to end” in graffiti speak…
Side Note: You can see other works by this artist/writer, called Uber5000, in different areas throughout the city. You will see the “little chicks” and know Uber5000 has left a mark!
Work in Progress!
Seeing the scaffolding there makes me think there will be more to come on this building!
I got to watch a few artists in action. It was pretty interesting. This first guy was oblivious to the people around him…or just ignoring us maybe?
These two guys took the time to stop and chat with people that asked them questions. I found out that it is called “buff” to remove painted graffiti with chemicals and other instruments, or to paint over it with a flat color. They were using flat black to “buff” the wall (except for the part on the far left. They were incorporating it into the next generation of art on this section. I spent a fair bit of time watching these guys. The one on the left has more control with that paint roller than I have with my tiny paint brushes!
“Pieces”
A large, complex, and labor-intensive graffiti painting. Pieces often incorporate 3-D effects, arrows, and many colors and color-transitions, as well as various other effects. These will usually be done by writers/artists with more experience. The more elaborate “pieces” are referred to as “wildstyle”. (Graffiti with text so stylized as to be difficult to read, often with interlocking, three-dimensional type.)
The area that “Graffiti Alley” covers is not large, but I spent over 2 hours there soaking in the atmosphere, admiring the complexities that went into each piece, watching other people’s reactions and of course being jealous that it wasn’t my art gracing these iconic walls.
After a full day of exploring, dining, admiring and absorbing, it was finally time to head home. I hopped a streetcar to take me back to the subway station, then took the subway back to the car. Time to go home and relax after a great day!
I’ve been to Toronto many times but never knew about Kensington Market. Graffiti Alley looks like a definite must-see the next time I visit. Thanks for the great pics and info!
You’re welcome. Our city has hidden treasures. These two make the list!
What a cool area to explore. I love the murals and quaint little shops. I hope to visit someday 🙂
You should definitely visit if you are ever in the area. It’s an amazing place.
Loved this post! This day seems like my kind of day! I have a friend in Toronto, and since I’m just over the bridge in Buffalo, going to visit her soon. First stop will be Kensington Market and Graffiti Alley! I’m excited!
Thank you! Make sure you visit the Blue Banana for some cool gifts. I can’t set foot in there without buying something.